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		<title>Bicycle Forums</title>
		<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Bicycle Repair Forums - http://forums.bicycletutor.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:19:33 -0500</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Rim tape removal/repair]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4993.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 11:53:04 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4993.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[This is probably a very basic question for all of you, but can anyone help me fix a rim tape problem? It appears that the tape has shifted in the ten years I've owned my bike (is that possible?) and now it doesn't cover the entire hole in the rim where the tube valve comes through. My tubes are all popping within a day of installing them in the same place at that side of the valve. How can I fix this? I see that I can buy new rim tape, but should i remove the old one first, and if so, how? Or should I try to merely add a bit more tape to the exposed metal at the valve hole? I've tried padding that spot with layers of electrical tape (all I had the the time), that failed. Suggestions? Thanks.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[This is probably a very basic question for all of you, but can anyone help me fix a rim tape problem? It appears that the tape has shifted in the ten years I've owned my bike (is that possible?) and now it doesn't cover the entire hole in the rim where the tube valve comes through. My tubes are all popping within a day of installing them in the same place at that side of the valve. How can I fix this? I see that I can buy new rim tape, but should i remove the old one first, and if so, how? Or should I try to merely add a bit more tape to the exposed metal at the valve hole? I've tried padding that spot with layers of electrical tape (all I had the the time), that failed. Suggestions? Thanks.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Do I go to the more expensive or less expensive bike shop for a fitting?]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4992.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 00:36:43 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4992.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I need a fitting on my bike and it's really expensive some places. One place said they'd do a fitting for &#36;80, another said &#36;60, another said &#36;1 a minute, but then another place said &#36;25. But the problem is, I was asking around, and the guy who charges the &#36;1 a minute said<br />
"how do you know what kind of service you are getting for the &#36;25? There could be a lot of work required or not very much -- without looking at it I wouldn't be able to estimate. It is like if you got a dent in your car and the guy said "I'll fix it for &#36;100" without even seeing it, it might end up being a really bad job done, and you're &#36;100 out and no farther ahead. Charging by the minute could take five minutes or it could take an hour, you never know, it depends on the job"<br />
<br />
So now I am thinking, is the guy who charges between 1/2 and 1/3 the price of the other guys going to do a good job? I'm not sure if this guy is just giving me a line or not -- what if it just 'happens' to take an hour and I'm paying &#36;60 plus tax? That is exactly what I wanted to avoid.<br />
<br />
What should I do?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I need a fitting on my bike and it's really expensive some places. One place said they'd do a fitting for &#36;80, another said &#36;60, another said &#36;1 a minute, but then another place said &#36;25. But the problem is, I was asking around, and the guy who charges the &#36;1 a minute said<br />
"how do you know what kind of service you are getting for the &#36;25? There could be a lot of work required or not very much -- without looking at it I wouldn't be able to estimate. It is like if you got a dent in your car and the guy said "I'll fix it for &#36;100" without even seeing it, it might end up being a really bad job done, and you're &#36;100 out and no farther ahead. Charging by the minute could take five minutes or it could take an hour, you never know, it depends on the job"<br />
<br />
So now I am thinking, is the guy who charges between 1/2 and 1/3 the price of the other guys going to do a good job? I'm not sure if this guy is just giving me a line or not -- what if it just 'happens' to take an hour and I'm paying &#36;60 plus tax? That is exactly what I wanted to avoid.<br />
<br />
What should I do?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Newbie needing help/guidance Trek 820]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4991.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 18:00:03 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4991.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[My name is Jake, Im 36 and from Portland Tennessee. I haven't been on a bike in several years and was told by my Dr. that I needed to get more exercise. I started looking into mountain bikes as a good choice as a way to get exercise and to also enjoy the outdoors.<br />
<br />
I just bought a used Trek 19" 820 MTB off of Ebay that needs some TLC. I plan on doing mostly greenway riding as well as some light trail riding. I want to replace the seat, stem, handle bars(add some extenders), grips, pedals, etc. I also want to replace any parts that are ware items like the cables, brake pads, etc. My max budget is &#36;200 and I hope this nets me a nice bike that will last years to come.<br />
<br />
 The problem is I don't know what will fit and what wont fit as well as good brands. Im very mechanically inclined and don't mind to do all the work myself. I went to school to work on cars so I already have most hand tools I just don't have anything at all that's special to a bike. I could also use a manual if something like that even exists?<br />
<br />
 On top of all of this Im trying to find my wife a good bike as well so she can ride with me and also enjoy the outdoors, she is 5'4" and from what I read needs around a 15" frame but theres not much out there on ebay or CL. I prefer something used and a little older.<br />
<br />
Im really excited to get my bike and start the upgrading. Thanks for any and all help, I feel as lost as last years Easter egg right now!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[My name is Jake, Im 36 and from Portland Tennessee. I haven't been on a bike in several years and was told by my Dr. that I needed to get more exercise. I started looking into mountain bikes as a good choice as a way to get exercise and to also enjoy the outdoors.<br />
<br />
I just bought a used Trek 19" 820 MTB off of Ebay that needs some TLC. I plan on doing mostly greenway riding as well as some light trail riding. I want to replace the seat, stem, handle bars(add some extenders), grips, pedals, etc. I also want to replace any parts that are ware items like the cables, brake pads, etc. My max budget is &#36;200 and I hope this nets me a nice bike that will last years to come.<br />
<br />
 The problem is I don't know what will fit and what wont fit as well as good brands. Im very mechanically inclined and don't mind to do all the work myself. I went to school to work on cars so I already have most hand tools I just don't have anything at all that's special to a bike. I could also use a manual if something like that even exists?<br />
<br />
 On top of all of this Im trying to find my wife a good bike as well so she can ride with me and also enjoy the outdoors, she is 5'4" and from what I read needs around a 15" frame but theres not much out there on ebay or CL. I prefer something used and a little older.<br />
<br />
Im really excited to get my bike and start the upgrading. Thanks for any and all help, I feel as lost as last years Easter egg right now!]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Raleigh Record Refresh]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4987.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 10:24:06 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4987.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[A few years ago I acquired a Raleigh Record (I think it's an early 80's model, but could be late 70's).  I am thinking about refreshing of the parts on the bike and was wondering whether or not it was compatible with more modern components.  I don't know a whole lot about the individual bicycle components so my terminology may be off.  For instance if I wanted to replace the crankset, would I be limited as to what crankset will fit with the frame?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[A few years ago I acquired a Raleigh Record (I think it's an early 80's model, but could be late 70's).  I am thinking about refreshing of the parts on the bike and was wondering whether or not it was compatible with more modern components.  I don't know a whole lot about the individual bicycle components so my terminology may be off.  For instance if I wanted to replace the crankset, would I be limited as to what crankset will fit with the frame?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Wheel/fender troubleshooting]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4986.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:14:14 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4986.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 1970s Orly that I found at a garage sale and I'm trying to get on the road. The back wheel rubs on the fender. I am able to adjust the wheel so that it does not rub, but when I put weight on it to ride, it rubs and gets stuck again. A couple of issues:<br />
<br />
1. The fenders are attached with a bolt through the bottom of the braking system. It is completely integrated, so I'm not sure how to remove the fenders (to get rid of the rub and make it ride-able) without also replacing the brakes - or if that is even an option. ??<br />
<br />
2. The wheels are attached with wing nuts, which is probably not very safe, but is this may be allowing the wheel to move when weight is applied? If so, would it help to change the axles? <br />
<br />
3. I have already gone down 1/4" on the tire size, and the wheels are trued. The front wheel has been adjusted and is fine. <br />
<br />
Any suggestions? I appreciate any help here - I'm really frustrated.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I have a 1970s Orly that I found at a garage sale and I'm trying to get on the road. The back wheel rubs on the fender. I am able to adjust the wheel so that it does not rub, but when I put weight on it to ride, it rubs and gets stuck again. A couple of issues:<br />
<br />
1. The fenders are attached with a bolt through the bottom of the braking system. It is completely integrated, so I'm not sure how to remove the fenders (to get rid of the rub and make it ride-able) without also replacing the brakes - or if that is even an option. ??<br />
<br />
2. The wheels are attached with wing nuts, which is probably not very safe, but is this may be allowing the wheel to move when weight is applied? If so, would it help to change the axles? <br />
<br />
3. I have already gone down 1/4" on the tire size, and the wheels are trued. The front wheel has been adjusted and is fine. <br />
<br />
Any suggestions? I appreciate any help here - I'm really frustrated.]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Awkward bolts!]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4984.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:02:25 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4984.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Been trying to remove the cranks in order to replace the bottom bracket, after much effort I managed to remove one side, however despite being careful the thread inside the other one has 'rounded-out', meaning the allen key just spins round. There's not much room to drill a bigger hole or anything like that, but I can't figure out how to remove the darn thing now. Any ideas?<br />
Cheers]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Been trying to remove the cranks in order to replace the bottom bracket, after much effort I managed to remove one side, however despite being careful the thread inside the other one has 'rounded-out', meaning the allen key just spins round. There's not much room to drill a bigger hole or anything like that, but I can't figure out how to remove the darn thing now. Any ideas?<br />
Cheers]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[What type of freewheel do I have]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4983.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 03:19:04 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4983.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I've got two bikes that I bought off ebay - I'm not entirely sure what type of freewheel they have.  I think they are both Hyperglide ones but the 1st says 'STARLIT FREEWHEEL' on it, while the 2nd says it's a Shimano.  (see pics)<br />
<br />
Can anyone let me know so I can buy a removal tool and two new freehweels to replace them? <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
<br />
RR<br />
<br />
[attachment=4254&#93;<br />
[attachment=4255&#93;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I've got two bikes that I bought off ebay - I'm not entirely sure what type of freewheel they have.  I think they are both Hyperglide ones but the 1st says 'STARLIT FREEWHEEL' on it, while the 2nd says it's a Shimano.  (see pics)<br />
<br />
Can anyone let me know so I can buy a removal tool and two new freehweels to replace them? <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
<br />
RR<br />
<br />
[attachment=4254]<br />
[attachment=4255]]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Old MTB, what to upgrade?]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4981.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 23:38:49 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4981.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello everybody, I have a 10 years old MTB, OLMO brand, nothing exceptional about it, I would like to "rehab" it and use it as commuter.<br />
<br />
It's somewhat on the heavy side and the wheels are rusted but the pedals, chain and gear shifting groups seem to be in good shape.<br />
<br />
How would you "thoughtfully" upgrade a bike like this to become a slightly lighter ride without spending too much? What would be the best bang for my bucks?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello everybody, I have a 10 years old MTB, OLMO brand, nothing exceptional about it, I would like to "rehab" it and use it as commuter.<br />
<br />
It's somewhat on the heavy side and the wheels are rusted but the pedals, chain and gear shifting groups seem to be in good shape.<br />
<br />
How would you "thoughtfully" upgrade a bike like this to become a slightly lighter ride without spending too much? What would be the best bang for my bucks?]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Happy Fathers Day]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4980.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 21:57:46 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4980.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I just hoping every one here a Happy Fathers Day]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I just hoping every one here a Happy Fathers Day]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Replacing a rear axle with a quick release]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4979.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 21:31:33 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4979.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all, <br />
<br />
I realized after a long time that my rear axle had broken. I went to my local bike shop and they took a look at it and sold me the appropriate replacement. I'm pretty handy, but I think I'm in a little over my head here. I've looked at many pictures of axle assemblies and watched a few videos, but they're all a little different than mine.<br />
<br />
I have all the original components of my axle assembly (I THINK), but I assembled it the way it was on the old axle, and when I put it back through the hub, the axle is sticking out too much on one side, I think. Also, looking at a ton of other axle assembly pictures online, they all seem to have an extra spacer that I don't appear to have. I really, really think I have all the pieces, but I guess it's possible I lost a spacer or something.<br />
<br />
Here are a few pictures of my axle assembly. They're laid out in the relative positions they were on the old axle (I think). I'm basically wondering if anyone could tell me if I'm definitely missing a spacer, or there's something else I should really know:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/rM3rIb0h.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://i.imgur.com/rM3rIb0h.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/FIoyn8Gh.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://i.imgur.com/FIoyn8Gh.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/6l4g7mdh.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://i.imgur.com/6l4g7mdh.jpg</a><br />
<br />
Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you!!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all, <br />
<br />
I realized after a long time that my rear axle had broken. I went to my local bike shop and they took a look at it and sold me the appropriate replacement. I'm pretty handy, but I think I'm in a little over my head here. I've looked at many pictures of axle assemblies and watched a few videos, but they're all a little different than mine.<br />
<br />
I have all the original components of my axle assembly (I THINK), but I assembled it the way it was on the old axle, and when I put it back through the hub, the axle is sticking out too much on one side, I think. Also, looking at a ton of other axle assembly pictures online, they all seem to have an extra spacer that I don't appear to have. I really, really think I have all the pieces, but I guess it's possible I lost a spacer or something.<br />
<br />
Here are a few pictures of my axle assembly. They're laid out in the relative positions they were on the old axle (I think). I'm basically wondering if anyone could tell me if I'm definitely missing a spacer, or there's something else I should really know:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/rM3rIb0h.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://i.imgur.com/rM3rIb0h.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/FIoyn8Gh.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://i.imgur.com/FIoyn8Gh.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/6l4g7mdh.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://i.imgur.com/6l4g7mdh.jpg</a><br />
<br />
Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you!!]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Wierd Noise ?]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4978.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 13:13:12 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4978.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello guys, I have this problem with my bicycle.<br />
<br />
Lately, when i start pedaling and driving, I hear some weird noise coming from my cranks, pedals or somewhere near.<br />
<br />
It's not clicking sound, I can't even describe it with words.<br />
If you know what is it, help, if you don't know what sound could it be, I can record it.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello guys, I have this problem with my bicycle.<br />
<br />
Lately, when i start pedaling and driving, I hear some weird noise coming from my cranks, pedals or somewhere near.<br />
<br />
It's not clicking sound, I can't even describe it with words.<br />
If you know what is it, help, if you don't know what sound could it be, I can record it.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[2008 Schwinn Varsity Pick and FlipTest]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4976.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:48:55 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4976.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Picked up this Walmart Schwinn Varsity today Just to see if I could make a profit of some sort off a dept. store schwinn. I gave &#36;50 for it and it has only been ridden around the block a couple times. I posted it for &#36;150 on craigslist to test the waters. I hope it sells, (for @ least &#36;52 )<br />
The promax dual-pivit calipers seem decent enough and brake well, the crankset is alloy w/replaceable chainrings, the wheels are true and spin nice, the cheesy parts are the seatpost, front/rear derailluer,stem,shifters. I plan to only give it a quik tune and see how it goes. I have seen other people take these bikes and do a couple upgrades and they seem happy with them. I would flat bar it myself and swap derailleurs to make it a more decent ride for me.<br />
So what do you guys think it will sell for? What would you pay for a pristine 2008 Varsity? The original list was &#36;244]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Picked up this Walmart Schwinn Varsity today Just to see if I could make a profit of some sort off a dept. store schwinn. I gave &#36;50 for it and it has only been ridden around the block a couple times. I posted it for &#36;150 on craigslist to test the waters. I hope it sells, (for @ least &#36;52 )<br />
The promax dual-pivit calipers seem decent enough and brake well, the crankset is alloy w/replaceable chainrings, the wheels are true and spin nice, the cheesy parts are the seatpost, front/rear derailluer,stem,shifters. I plan to only give it a quik tune and see how it goes. I have seen other people take these bikes and do a couple upgrades and they seem happy with them. I would flat bar it myself and swap derailleurs to make it a more decent ride for me.<br />
So what do you guys think it will sell for? What would you pay for a pristine 2008 Varsity? The original list was &#36;244]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Montague Paratrooper Shifting Troubles]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4975.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 13:13:33 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4975.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[First off, I'm relatively new to this whole thing so bare with me . . . I'll try to get the terminology right but please correct me if it's not.<br />
<br />
I received my Montague Paratrooper(<a href="http://www.montaguebikes.com/paratrooper-folding-military-bike.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Paratrooper</a> for stats) this past Tuesday 6-11-13. I rode it up and down the street a little just to get the feel of it then took it to a local bike shop for a tune-up to make sure everything was put together correctly, break calipers adjusted properly, etc.<br />
<br />
I got the bike back and took it out for a 6 mile ride this morning but I was having issues shifting in and out of the highest gear on the chainrings to the point that it fell off at one point. I was also having issues with the chain jumping two gears while down shifting the rear cogs from the highest gear.<br />
<br />
Are these easy things to fix or should I let the bike break in a bit and then take it back for another tune-up?<br />
<br />
-- EDIT --<br />
Disregard about the downshifting two at a time . . . I just went out and played around a bit and realized that it was user error.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[First off, I'm relatively new to this whole thing so bare with me . . . I'll try to get the terminology right but please correct me if it's not.<br />
<br />
I received my Montague Paratrooper(<a href="http://www.montaguebikes.com/paratrooper-folding-military-bike.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Paratrooper</a> for stats) this past Tuesday 6-11-13. I rode it up and down the street a little just to get the feel of it then took it to a local bike shop for a tune-up to make sure everything was put together correctly, break calipers adjusted properly, etc.<br />
<br />
I got the bike back and took it out for a 6 mile ride this morning but I was having issues shifting in and out of the highest gear on the chainrings to the point that it fell off at one point. I was also having issues with the chain jumping two gears while down shifting the rear cogs from the highest gear.<br />
<br />
Are these easy things to fix or should I let the bike break in a bit and then take it back for another tune-up?<br />
<br />
-- EDIT --<br />
Disregard about the downshifting two at a time . . . I just went out and played around a bit and realized that it was user error.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Lower back pain while riding road bike?]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4973.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 22:18:10 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4973.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I've had my latest road bike for about 5 weeks, and over the last week or two I've had increasing amounts of lower back pain.  First it was just on long rides, now it's all the time.  I have to actually stop riding this bike, because I am worried it is not a pain I should just ignore for long periods.<br />
<br />
I asked around about it, and I was told to check the setup of the bike, since bikes aren't supposed to give back pain when set up properly.<br />
<br />
With questioning, a couple of people said, it looks fine at a glance, but we can get you in for a professional fitting for &#36;60.  Someone else looked at it and said, it looks like a long reach, the stem is long and the seat is far back on the rails.  He moved the seat forward a little and the stem up a little, but he said I should consider getting a shorter stem.<br />
<br />
I looked into it and I found a stem that is shorter, and also has an adjustable angle, which I've never seen before, and I'm assuming means I would be able to actually pivot the handlebars to angle up or down if I wanted.  Mainly, I would hope I could raise it higher.<br />
<br />
I do know that my 'backup' bike, which is a beast of a mountain bike, has a seat that is incredibly low because it falls off if I try to lower it -- and I don't get back pain on that -- so it seems that being more upright would be the key.  However, I don't want to convert it into a cruiser or a flat-barred bike, because I love the experience of riding road bikes with narrow handles and drop bars.  I'm sure there must be a way of riding this bike as it is, with a few modifications.<br />
<br />
My problem is this:<br />
If I were to get this 'fitting' it would cost &#36;60+, plus any parts and labour which results from their expert opinion, so very easily &#36;100+ dollars.   <br />
If I were to get this stem it would cost me &#36;60.  <br />
<br />
Both of these things are options which I am unsure would even fix the problem.  So, I don't know what to do.  Either way it's a lot of money to me, for an unsure thing.<br />
<br />
What are your guys' thoughts on this?  Right now the bike, although I love it, is unrideable because it's messing up my back too much (and my front left shoulder recently, but I think I have discovered it is because I let too much movement happen in the handlebars when I stand up and ride -- when I keep it tighter it's okay)<br />
<br />
What should I do?<br />
<br />
I've attached a picture of my bike.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I've had my latest road bike for about 5 weeks, and over the last week or two I've had increasing amounts of lower back pain.  First it was just on long rides, now it's all the time.  I have to actually stop riding this bike, because I am worried it is not a pain I should just ignore for long periods.<br />
<br />
I asked around about it, and I was told to check the setup of the bike, since bikes aren't supposed to give back pain when set up properly.<br />
<br />
With questioning, a couple of people said, it looks fine at a glance, but we can get you in for a professional fitting for &#36;60.  Someone else looked at it and said, it looks like a long reach, the stem is long and the seat is far back on the rails.  He moved the seat forward a little and the stem up a little, but he said I should consider getting a shorter stem.<br />
<br />
I looked into it and I found a stem that is shorter, and also has an adjustable angle, which I've never seen before, and I'm assuming means I would be able to actually pivot the handlebars to angle up or down if I wanted.  Mainly, I would hope I could raise it higher.<br />
<br />
I do know that my 'backup' bike, which is a beast of a mountain bike, has a seat that is incredibly low because it falls off if I try to lower it -- and I don't get back pain on that -- so it seems that being more upright would be the key.  However, I don't want to convert it into a cruiser or a flat-barred bike, because I love the experience of riding road bikes with narrow handles and drop bars.  I'm sure there must be a way of riding this bike as it is, with a few modifications.<br />
<br />
My problem is this:<br />
If I were to get this 'fitting' it would cost &#36;60+, plus any parts and labour which results from their expert opinion, so very easily &#36;100+ dollars.   <br />
If I were to get this stem it would cost me &#36;60.  <br />
<br />
Both of these things are options which I am unsure would even fix the problem.  So, I don't know what to do.  Either way it's a lot of money to me, for an unsure thing.<br />
<br />
What are your guys' thoughts on this?  Right now the bike, although I love it, is unrideable because it's messing up my back too much (and my front left shoulder recently, but I think I have discovered it is because I let too much movement happen in the handlebars when I stand up and ride -- when I keep it tighter it's okay)<br />
<br />
What should I do?<br />
<br />
I've attached a picture of my bike.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Handlebar is slipping]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4972.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 16:51:11 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4972.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently acquired a Mongoose mtn bike and have found the handlebars to be loose in the quill.  I tried tightening the bolt but still had the problem.  I get the most trouble when climbing.  The strange thing is, these are low rise bars, when they tilt back I can move them side to side but forward they tighten up.  I haven't fully taken it apart but figure its one or the other.  Any comments for repair?<hr />
I should add it was gently used probably from Walmart.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I recently acquired a Mongoose mtn bike and have found the handlebars to be loose in the quill.  I tried tightening the bolt but still had the problem.  I get the most trouble when climbing.  The strange thing is, these are low rise bars, when they tilt back I can move them side to side but forward they tighten up.  I haven't fully taken it apart but figure its one or the other.  Any comments for repair?<hr />
I should add it was gently used probably from Walmart.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Riding with an extra load]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4971.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 16:31:16 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4971.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I often help out a friend who deals greatly in track/fixed gear/singlespeed bikes and bike parts. He has called me asking for help to transport parts ranging from a few cranks or handlebars all the way up to bike frames. Just wondering if anyone else has biked with large loads (such as a bike frame) and how they have dealt with it. We have used messenger bags, hiking daypacks, even bags equipped with skateboard carry straps to carry wheels. Has anyone else done this or is it just me and my friend? And if you have, what was your chosen method to carry the load?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I often help out a friend who deals greatly in track/fixed gear/singlespeed bikes and bike parts. He has called me asking for help to transport parts ranging from a few cranks or handlebars all the way up to bike frames. Just wondering if anyone else has biked with large loads (such as a bike frame) and how they have dealt with it. We have used messenger bags, hiking daypacks, even bags equipped with skateboard carry straps to carry wheels. Has anyone else done this or is it just me and my friend? And if you have, what was your chosen method to carry the load?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Is this rim compatible?]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4970.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 19:28:52 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4970.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I was planning on getting a pair of wheels for my 12 speed Free Spirit 27x1 1/4 bike from around 1981.<br />
<br />
I found these wheels. <br />
Rear: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Freewheel-27-Inch/dp/B003RLHKQQ/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Freewheel-27-Inch/dp/B003RLHKQQ/</a><br />
<br />
Front: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Nutted-27-Inch/dp/B003RLHKNO/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Nutted-27-Inch/dp/B003RLHKNO/</a><br />
<br />
Here is my question: will the hubs on these wheels work with my 12 speed bike? It says 7 speed compatible, but is it compatible or can it be converted to be made compatible with my 12 speed freewheel?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I was planning on getting a pair of wheels for my 12 speed Free Spirit 27x1 1/4 bike from around 1981.<br />
<br />
I found these wheels. <br />
Rear: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Freewheel-27-Inch/dp/B003RLHKQQ/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Freewheel-27-Inch/dp/B003RLHKQQ/</a><br />
<br />
Front: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Nutted-27-Inch/dp/B003RLHKNO/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Nutted-27-Inch/dp/B003RLHKNO/</a><br />
<br />
Here is my question: will the hubs on these wheels work with my 12 speed bike? It says 7 speed compatible, but is it compatible or can it be converted to be made compatible with my 12 speed freewheel?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Grinding headset]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4969.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 15:53:23 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4969.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi; I just bought a used, rather nice Columbus frame to build a lightweight for my daughter. It has (had) a no-name roller- bearing headset which was decidedly crunchy, to the extent that when the forks were turned backwards it almost jammed. Also there is a half-ring patch of bare metal on the lower front of the steering tube ..... no sign of damage to the forks or frame, so I suspect poor installation of a worn headset and have bought another. Anyone else come across this type of uneven friction? Don't want to put out a bike with wonky steering!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi; I just bought a used, rather nice Columbus frame to build a lightweight for my daughter. It has (had) a no-name roller- bearing headset which was decidedly crunchy, to the extent that when the forks were turned backwards it almost jammed. Also there is a half-ring patch of bare metal on the lower front of the steering tube ..... no sign of damage to the forks or frame, so I suspect poor installation of a worn headset and have bought another. Anyone else come across this type of uneven friction? Don't want to put out a bike with wonky steering!]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Falcon 7spd Freewheel removal]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4967.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 20:09:01 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4967.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Guys,<br />
I need help (hopefully a little) with Falcon 7spd Freewheel removal.<br />
The nut on Freewheel side won’t budge.<br />
As a result FR-7 cannot be inserted completely, there is a gap about 3 to 5 mm (0.11811 0.19685 inch)<br />
I don’t even know how far FR-7 should do into Freewheel.<br />
I tried unscrew (counter-clockwise) Freewheel itself (without fully inserted FR-7)<br />
Don’t want to apply too much strength.<br />
I have a feeling already (I see it actually), spokes bend, but Freewheel won’t budge.<br />
Do I need to secure sprockets set somehow and try a wrench with longer handle?<br />
<br />
Or do I need to remove the nut on Freewheel side first?<br />
I tried WD-40 on nut, waited 30min – no difference, it won’t go.<br />
I secured another side with counter-nuts, but no luck.<br />
Counter-nuts are moving, not the nut I want to remove.<br />
The axle thread size is really small (IMO!), I feel if I put a bit more strength to secure counter-nuts, I’ll damage threads...<br />
<br />
One more thing I want to mention:<br />
I can remove nut and race nut on the side opposite to Freewheel (and bearing balls)<br />
It won’t release an axle.<br />
The outer plate (with name "Falcon" on it) inner diameter is smaller than race nut on Freewheel side.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is a thread with similar question: <a href="http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-1674.html" target="_blank">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-1674.html</a><br />
I cannot follow Bill advice in post #7 "to take off race nut and remove the loose bearings from Freewheel side". Or might be, I simply don’t understand, how he did it.<br />
<br />
<br />
Anyway, here I’m am waiting advice how to proceed.<br />
Appreciate any input.<br />
<br />
[attachment=4235&#93;<br />
[attachment=4236&#93;<br />
[attachment=4237&#93;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Guys,<br />
I need help (hopefully a little) with Falcon 7spd Freewheel removal.<br />
The nut on Freewheel side won’t budge.<br />
As a result FR-7 cannot be inserted completely, there is a gap about 3 to 5 mm (0.11811 0.19685 inch)<br />
I don’t even know how far FR-7 should do into Freewheel.<br />
I tried unscrew (counter-clockwise) Freewheel itself (without fully inserted FR-7)<br />
Don’t want to apply too much strength.<br />
I have a feeling already (I see it actually), spokes bend, but Freewheel won’t budge.<br />
Do I need to secure sprockets set somehow and try a wrench with longer handle?<br />
<br />
Or do I need to remove the nut on Freewheel side first?<br />
I tried WD-40 on nut, waited 30min – no difference, it won’t go.<br />
I secured another side with counter-nuts, but no luck.<br />
Counter-nuts are moving, not the nut I want to remove.<br />
The axle thread size is really small (IMO!), I feel if I put a bit more strength to secure counter-nuts, I’ll damage threads...<br />
<br />
One more thing I want to mention:<br />
I can remove nut and race nut on the side opposite to Freewheel (and bearing balls)<br />
It won’t release an axle.<br />
The outer plate (with name "Falcon" on it) inner diameter is smaller than race nut on Freewheel side.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is a thread with similar question: <a href="http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-1674.html" target="_blank">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-1674.html</a><br />
I cannot follow Bill advice in post #7 "to take off race nut and remove the loose bearings from Freewheel side". Or might be, I simply don’t understand, how he did it.<br />
<br />
<br />
Anyway, here I’m am waiting advice how to proceed.<br />
Appreciate any input.<br />
<br />
[attachment=4235]<br />
[attachment=4236]<br />
[attachment=4237]]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Getting what I want.]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4966.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:59:48 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4966.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm new here , and I hope my question isn't too noobish. Im looking to buy myself a bicycle.There are so many different styles on the market, it's hard to choose just one. I have an idea in my mind , but so far , I'm unable to find exactly what I'm looking for.. I want a 29'er, with a front suspension, disc brakes.Here is where I have a problem,  I really want a 3 speed with the gears inside the rear hub. I have found what I want only it's in a single speed, I just dont want to start this new hobby changing parts . I'd like a "turn key" deal if it's at all possible. I have seen 3 , and 8 speed hubs , but none with a front suspension and disc brakes.  I would appreciate any help at all. Thanks<br />
                               jwill758<br />
<br />
I think I attached a photo (I tried) of a single speed of a bike I'd like. I just dont know whats involved in swapping hubs. Last time I worked on a bike was 1967. Im pretty sure things have changed since then.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I'm new here , and I hope my question isn't too noobish. Im looking to buy myself a bicycle.There are so many different styles on the market, it's hard to choose just one. I have an idea in my mind , but so far , I'm unable to find exactly what I'm looking for.. I want a 29'er, with a front suspension, disc brakes.Here is where I have a problem,  I really want a 3 speed with the gears inside the rear hub. I have found what I want only it's in a single speed, I just dont want to start this new hobby changing parts . I'd like a "turn key" deal if it's at all possible. I have seen 3 , and 8 speed hubs , but none with a front suspension and disc brakes.  I would appreciate any help at all. Thanks<br />
                               jwill758<br />
<br />
I think I attached a photo (I tried) of a single speed of a bike I'd like. I just dont know whats involved in swapping hubs. Last time I worked on a bike was 1967. Im pretty sure things have changed since then.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Rear disc brake problem]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4963.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:50:21 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4963.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi I'm having trouble with my rear mechanical disc brake when I pull the brake lever the lever on the brake calliper that pulls up when the pads bite the rotor pulls up but when I release the brake lever on the bars the calliper lever doesn't release and move back down if you know what I mean.....any suggestions ??]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi I'm having trouble with my rear mechanical disc brake when I pull the brake lever the lever on the brake calliper that pulls up when the pads bite the rotor pulls up but when I release the brake lever on the bars the calliper lever doesn't release and move back down if you know what I mean.....any suggestions ??]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Wide tire bead on narrow bead rim]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4962.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:17:31 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4962.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a touring bike that has Mavic MA2SBP rims marked 622 x 13.  For quite some time I have used a set of Vitoria 622 x 35 tires successfully on these rims.  I am starting to need a new set of tires and I like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour HS 404.  I would like to know if I can put the 700 x 40c tires on these rimes without a problem.  If not, would the 700 x 35c tires be better?  I read different things about this.  Some sites have said even the 700x 35 are really too wide.  Others say because of the tight bead grip of the Mavic rims width is not an issue.<br />
<br />
Anybody have any thoughts?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I have a touring bike that has Mavic MA2SBP rims marked 622 x 13.  For quite some time I have used a set of Vitoria 622 x 35 tires successfully on these rims.  I am starting to need a new set of tires and I like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour HS 404.  I would like to know if I can put the 700 x 40c tires on these rimes without a problem.  If not, would the 700 x 35c tires be better?  I read different things about this.  Some sites have said even the 700x 35 are really too wide.  Others say because of the tight bead grip of the Mavic rims width is not an issue.<br />
<br />
Anybody have any thoughts?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[7 speed rear wheels/wheelsets]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4960.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:09:27 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4960.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I am fixing a 1980's cannondale road bike and have upgraded and purchased parts to make this formerly 6 speed bike up to a 7 speed, the only problem I am having now is trying to find a rear wheel/wheelset that can accommodate the 7 speed cassette. Just wondering if it would be possible to use a spacer+the 7 speed cassette to make it fit onto a 8/9/10 speed wheel or do I need a 7 speed specific rear wheel?<br />
Also if i need a 7 speed specific rear wheel, any suggestions as to ones that I may be able to purchase?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I am fixing a 1980's cannondale road bike and have upgraded and purchased parts to make this formerly 6 speed bike up to a 7 speed, the only problem I am having now is trying to find a rear wheel/wheelset that can accommodate the 7 speed cassette. Just wondering if it would be possible to use a spacer+the 7 speed cassette to make it fit onto a 8/9/10 speed wheel or do I need a 7 speed specific rear wheel?<br />
Also if i need a 7 speed specific rear wheel, any suggestions as to ones that I may be able to purchase?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Finding a solid fork w/ out shocks and with a v brake]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4959.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 22:44:47 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4959.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know a good place online to just find parts. In particular a fork for a 20" bike.  I just adapted a target 20" mountain bike to a bx style handlebar cause to be honest i have never been a fan of the larger 10 speed bikes. Any how i have how the front fork feels as it takes away from some of the agility i was going for so if you have some suggestions.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Does anyone know a good place online to just find parts. In particular a fork for a 20" bike.  I just adapted a target 20" mountain bike to a bx style handlebar cause to be honest i have never been a fan of the larger 10 speed bikes. Any how i have how the front fork feels as it takes away from some of the agility i was going for so if you have some suggestions.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[How do I re-tighten my front derailleur cable?]]></title>
			<link>http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4958.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 18:27:29 -0500</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-4958.html</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Ok, I was cleaning my bike and as I was wiping down the seat tube, the front derailleur cable flung out, as the allen screw wasn't very tight...<br />
<br />
I looked up several videos and followed them to the best of my ability, but I can't get the slack out of the cable...<br />
<br />
I thought that the white things on the cable housing in the 3rd picture were the barrel adjusters referred to in videos, but turning them has no effect.<br />
<br />
Please help <img src="http://forums.bicycletutor.com/images/smilies/sad.gif" style="vertical-align: middle;" border="0" alt="Sad" title="Sad" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Ok, I was cleaning my bike and as I was wiping down the seat tube, the front derailleur cable flung out, as the allen screw wasn't very tight...<br />
<br />
I looked up several videos and followed them to the best of my ability, but I can't get the slack out of the cable...<br />
<br />
I thought that the white things on the cable housing in the 3rd picture were the barrel adjusters referred to in videos, but turning them has no effect.<br />
<br />
Please help <img src="http://forums.bicycletutor.com/images/smilies/sad.gif" style="vertical-align: middle;" border="0" alt="Sad" title="Sad" />]]></content:encoded>
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